Out to Lunch with Payton: The Henry Clay Inn
Dear Foodies,
Thank you so much for the support for my first column. I’m very excited to continue exploring the County and learning more about my reader’s community through their food.
Last week I had the pleasure of experiencing the homey comfort food of Homemades by Suzanne. For this issue, I took a recommendation from the owner herself, Suzanne Wolstenholme, who guided me to a local historical gem right next door.
A brief history
Originally named the Ashland Hotel, The Henry Clay Inn was built in 1858, named after orator and statesman who was born in Hanover County in 1777, and was the first of three hotels/inns in the area.
Following a fire that destroyed the original building in 1905 and the Civil War, which closed the hotel for a decade, Randolph-Macon College acquired the inn for use as a boarding house before it burnt down again in 1946.
The present-day Henry Clay Inn opened its doors on April 10, 1992. The exterior of the inn is an exact replica of its predecessors. The inn includes 13 guest rooms, a Parlor that opens onto the balcony overlooking the Ashland Visitors Center/train station and the campus of RMC, and a drawing room advertised to be used for business and social functions.
My experience
I arrived at the Inn soaking wet from a torrential downpour happening outside its wooden doors. As I entered the building, I was nicely welcomed by the owner, Beth Mason, as well as a few nicely attentive managers and an excellent server.
Although I was drenched from the rain, I felt a warm welcome. I was immediately given a warm towel and a moment to collect and dry off from the storm outside. The interior design in the parlor held up its historic legacy, with low lighting and antique-like decor, making it feel very inviting for a cold, wet and hungry traveler.
I was then escorted to my table in the dining room that had a beautiful stone-framed fireplace, where I got a chance to get to know the owner even more.
Mason began her career working in advertising and the travel industry. Her mother is an Ashland resident, where Mason would often come visit with her family.
Given that her mother’s house could not comfortably fit the entire family during their visit, they would often choose to stay at the Henry Clay Inn while they were in Ashland. Mason and her family grew this attachment to the Inn and when the space went up for auction in 2014, Mason knew she had to own it.
According to Mason The Henry Clay Inn’s restaurant side was originally rather limited and mostly just served buffet-style food. When the Inn had to close during COVID, Mason decided to expand into the restaurant side.
“I’ve worked in chain restaurants, and I’ve worked in big hotels, this is like, know your neighbor,” said Mason, when asked about her vision for the restaurant side of the business. “This place brings in people from New York, New Jersey, people from all over stop here because family’s here or on their way to someplace. After COVID, with everyone having to be a part, I wanted to see everybody come back together again.”
Mason said that her aim with the Henry Clay Inn restaurant was to focus on a more upscale version of American style local farm to table food.
Daniel Rogan is the Henry Clay-Inn’s new chef, although he has classic French culinary training, he said his go-to cuisine style is classic American.
The Review
The Arancini featured a crispy fried risotto with sliced mushrooms and a marinara sauce. The sauce was bright and sweet with a crunchy exterior. I prefer a little less crispiness when I usually have arancini, but overall, it was a good sharing dish.
The Boursin-stuffed mushrooms were well cooked with a rich filling that was nicely complimented by a sweet balsamic glaze, making it my favorite of the sampled appetizers.
The Boursin-stuffed mushrooms were well cooked with a rich filling that was nicely complimented by a sweet balsamic glaze, making it my favorite of the sampled appetizers.
The Chipotle pumpkin ravioli was cooked to a lovely al dente with a great filling to pasta ratio. The filling was slightly sweet and creamy and a nice balance with the rich cream based sauce. The chef also noted that the pasta was fresh from a local pasta maker.
The Mexican chocolate lava cake was rich and decadent with a slight cinnamon spice kick, separating it from other lava cakes I've ever had, served with fresh blueberries to compliment the gooey melted chocolate filling.
The pumpkin crème brûlée was not my favorite, however this would be a perfect dish for a pumpkin pie lover. The crystalized sugar topping was perfectly made, but the filling was a similar flavor and texture to pumpkin pie. As someone who loves pumpkin flavors, but not the pie filling texture, this was not for me.
My overall experience at the Henry Clay Inn was very lovely and comforting. The staff went out of there way with each customer to assure they are welcomed and taken care of.
“This town is all about supporting each other and building a community here, and if you support them they’ll support you,” Richard Harding, server at the Henry Clay Inn.
Tips encouraged.
As you should do at the end of any lunch, I want to leave my readers with a “tip”. However, these will be for cooking rather than monetary, from the local chefs in their own community.
Tip from Daniel Rogan, Henry Clay Inn Chef: Always rest your proteins, cutting into a piece of meat too early will release all of the flavor. Patience is key, let your flavors set.
"Trust what your doing and let it rest," said Rogan.
I’m excited to continue this journey of connecting more with The Local readers’ community during my lunch hour. Eat well, tip well.
